Naveen and I will be focusing on family and knocking out some other projects during the holidays, so Why Cook? is going to be empty for a few weeks. Enjoy these links, and we hope to post again next year!
About Kevin LiuKevin Liu is a hopeless food geek obsessed with bacon, kale, and cocktails (but not usually all at once). You can follow him at @kevinkliu. Kevin is an editor at Science Fare.
Week of November 21-27, 2011
Above is a shot of turkey drumsticks, cooked at 170 for 8 hrs in butter and herbs – a small part of what we were thankful for this year. We hope everyone had a Thanksgiving as delicious as ours. Now, onto the links! Continue Reading →
I’m a little bit obsessive. Every time I go to Walmart, I inevitably find myself lost somewhere between chef’s knives and dutch ovens, mumbling to myself incoherently about the benefits of a Y-peeler over a paring knife. I’m just as bad with bookstores and libraries; no book containing the words “recipe”, “cooking” or “bacon” is safe from my perusal.
Over the last few years I’ve accumulated a pretty sizable collection of cookbooks, food science texts, and food literature. Add those resources to all the blogs, recipe aggregators, and search engines online, and it’s hard to know where to even start searching for recipes come dinnertime. After sitting down and organizing for a few hours over the past few weeks, I think I have a few useful takeaways.
We are also adding a new permanent page to the site – a list of recommended books relating to food and/or science. Please stop by and tell us what you think of the books or recommend additions.
Week of 14-20 November, 2011
This week’s roundup is a day late, mostly because Naveen and my weekend was consumed by the totally awesome TEDxCambridge event that was held Saturday at Harvard University. It was an amazing time, and we have lots of ideas and connections to share in the coming weeks as a result. Now, on to the links: Continue Reading →
flickr user a4gpa
Update, 2/27/13: Like this post? Check out the 250-page, 65-recipe book full of stuff like this.
this post was prepared with the assistance of Giles Cowan, a UK-based bartender who blogs about all things cocktailian (with healthy nods to science) over at DrinkFactory. go check out drinkfactory for some sweet cross-post action. now without further ado…
I take great pride in asking people what they like to drink and finding something in my home bar that will make them happy. I enjoy alcohol as a lubricant for social experiences and am convinced that in moderation, it has at least some moderate benefits to health. The vast majority of friends I’ve tested have enjoyed the drinks I’ve made them. People who swear they can’t stand hard liquor or only drink vodka have refilled on swizzles made from anejo tequila.
Except for Tom.
Tom (his real name isn’t Tom) cannot stand the taste of alcohol. At all. And I know it’s not his fault. He’s always a good sport, tasting every single drink I’ve made for him. Each time, he smiles, as if confident this time, this drink, he’ll find something he’ll genuinely enjoy and know exactly what to order at bars forever. For me, it’s like watching a car wreck in slow motion. I carefully study his face, looking for a sign, the slightest hint of a smile that indicates he’s pleased, satisfied, or at least indifferent. But, every time, this venture ends the same. Tom’s face tightens with disgust, his eyes squint, his tongue hangs limp from his defeated mouth.
Tom drinks Bud Lime and Coronas. I drink Tom’s cocktail leftovers. Once in a while, I’ll mix up something exceptionally light and he’ll happily accept a glass, knowing he’ll never be able to bring himself to ask for an amaretto sour or a dark and stormy (hold the stormy) in a bar. Poor Tom.
I decided to start doing some research. I had to understand why Tom didn’t enjoy the same drinks I found so delicious.
Does Alcohol Actually Taste Good? (or are we all just addicts?)
a flowchart summary of the research that’s going to be discussed. this will all make sense if you make it to the bottom of this post. warning: it’s kind of long.
Humans have been drinking alcohol for thousands of years. The earliest evidence we have dates back to the production of alcohol in China around 8000 B.C. And for as long as we’ve made it, we’ve treasured it. Pottery fragments left by Neolithic settlements living in modern-day Georgia around 6000 B.C. reveal images of celebration associated with alcoholic beverages.
Of course, early fermented wines and beers were relatively low alcohol. Some societies may have used alcohol production more as a means of preservation than for alcohol’s inhibition-reducing effects. In fact, we didn’t know how to distill alcohol to stronger strengths until 1200 A.D.
For more on the history of booze, see Drink: a Cultural History
A few thousand years is far too little time to evolve any sort of biological preference for alcohol, but we humans are very good at passing along our taste aversions and preferences through cultural and other unconscious cues. So what if the only reason I think alcohol tastes good is because people enjoy getting drunk and somehow that drug reliance has translated into a taste preference for ethanol? Would cocktails taste better if they were all virgin?
Some of the most telling research I found on the taste of alcohol came from the Department of Otolaryngology (the study of the ear, nose, and throat) at Warsaw Medical University in Poland. In 2000, Dr. Anna Scinska and five of her colleagues performed an experiment that, so far as I can tell, is the most definitive exploration of how people experience the flavor of alcohol available.
Dr. Scinska recruited 20 volunteers to taste small squirts of various concentrations of ethanol, sugar sucrose syrup, citric acid, saline, and quinine, a bittering agent. Perception of ethanol’s taste was in question. The other solutions were meant to represent the tastes of sweet, sour, salty, and bitter – the four basic tastes the tongue can experience (MSG is a fifth, but is less explored). The results were intriguing. Every single test subject said that ethanol is bitter, even when it was present only as a 0.3% solution. The second most common taste descriptor, however, was that ethanol tasted sweet.
In the second part of Dr. Scinska’s experiment, the test subjects were invited back to compare ethanol to tastes, but this time they were asked to rate the taste similarity of ethanol to a combination of both quinine and sucrose. The results confirmed what had been observed during the first test. When subjects tasted a 10% ethanol solution, they found it tasted most similar to a 3% sucrose solution with just a little quinine (0.005%) mixed in.
From this research, it seemed clear that people find alcohol both bitter and sweet. Everyone appears to find alcohol bitter, but apparently not extremely bitter, regardless of concentration. People also thought alcohol was sweet, but once again, only slightly, regardless of concentration.
These revelations were fortifying for me. The research showed that alcohol delivers a complex mix of bitter and sweet. Even at cocktail concentrations, the flavors were described as “pleasant”. In fact, as I did more reading on the subject, I found that other animals (rats, elephants, birds included) seem to seek out naturally occurring alcohol for its sweet taste.
So why did Tom still hate cocktails? Going off the Scinska research, I thought maybe it might have something to do with the way he perceives bitterness. More research was needed.
It’s Not Tom’s Fault
In 2004, Sarah Lanier, a graduate of the dietetics program at the University of Connecticut, recruited 49 undergraduate students from the UConn population for an experiment. Lanier was working with Dr. Valerie B. Duffy, a professor at UConn who earlier that year had published a paper linking ethanol (the stuff that makes alcohol alcoholic) to a compound called 6-n-propylthiouracil, commonly known as PROP.
Here’s how Lanier’s experiment played out. Each of the 49 recruits sampled four different drinks: pilsner beer, blended scotch whiskey, instant espresso, and unsweetened grapefruit juice. They rated how bitter or sweet each drink tasted on two scales – intensity and whether they liked the taste. And that was it. The session must have been pretty easy for the college kids. They got free booze, a little coffee, and a few dollars for an hour of work.
But Lanier found some interesting results with this simple experiment. She collected two more important pieces of data about the students: (1) how much alcohol they consumed and (2) whether they were sensitive to PROP bitterness. People who are sensitive to PROP are known as “supertasters” because they find certain foods unbearably bitter. Most people are middle tasters, while some are “nontasters” – people who barely experience PROP bitterness at all. Lanier discovered that nontasters not only found bitter foods to taste less bitter, they also experienced sweet foods as sweeter. On the other end of the spectrum, supertasters found all bitter drinks to taste more bitter.
When Lanier linked people’s perception of sweet and bitter to their consumption of alcohol, she discovered something really unexpected. People who thought scotch tasted sweeter and less bitter drank more alcohol on average. In addition, this effect appeared regardless of whether people said they actually liked scotch or not. How the students experienced beer, however, did not seem to have any predictive value on total alcohol consumption. Instead, Lanier found simply that more men tended to say they “liked beer” and those that showed this preference tended to drink more.
The UConn experiment seems to show two things. First, some people experience hard alcohol as extremely bitter and they drink less alcohol of any type as a result, even if they say they like the taste of hard alcohol. Second, although people experience beer very differently as well, they seem much more able to overcome their taste aversion, probably as a result of social pressure.
Aha! Now I understood why Tom could stomach some light beers, but struggled with sweet cocktails. He had probably overcome the bitterness of beer through social pressure and acquired tolerance to aversion, but the whole point of a craft cocktail is to use different strong liquors in harmony. You want to taste the alcohol. But that taste was torture for Tom.
But What About the Burning Taste of Alcohol?
There was one more thing I had to look into before closing the book on the “why do some people hate the taste of alcohol” case. Many of the participants in Dr. Scinska’s 2000 study ascribed a sour taste to ethanol, but upon interview, described more of a “burning sensation”. The characteristic burn of alcohol is well-documented, but, I wondered, what impact did it have on taste perception?
I posed the question to the question and answer site Quora and after a few months got a well-researched, thorough response from a medical student named Jae Won Joh:
The answer is not simple, unfortunately, and it’s actually a bit difficult to pinpoint. Let’s go through some of the research I’ve been able to dig up. Skip the bulletpoints and just go for the intermittent summaries if you’re impatient.
- In 1965, Hellekant discovered that cat gustatory fibers respond to ethanol by increasing their firing pattern. These fibers were also responsive to water, acetic acid, quinine, and salt. In cat non-gustatory fibers, ethanol caused a direct increase in firing up to a certain concentration before causing paralysis. This was one of the first studies looking into how ethanol affected taste nerves.
- In 1999, Sako and Yamamoto showed in rats that you could induce aversion to alcohols, suggesting a possible burning/unpleasant sensation.
- In 2002, Danilova and Hellekant duplicated Hellekant’s 1965 work in rhesus monkeys, showing that ethanol induces increases in firing in about half of lingual non-gustatory receptors. The taste fibers which respond to ethanol are also sensitive light touch and cooling. This suggested some sort of neuronal manipulation by ethanol, possibly with mechanoreceptors.
- In 2002, Trevisani published a brilliant paper showing that ethanol actually potentiates TRPV-1, a heat-gated ion channel that is responsible for the burning sensation elicited by capsaicin. Ethanol potentiated the response of TRPV-1 to capsaicin, protons, and heat; lowering the threshold for heat activation from 42°C to 34°C. This provides a likely mechanistic explanation for the ethanol-induced sensory responses that occur at body temperature.
Layman’s summary up till 2002: we thought ethanol was just messing with nerves, but apparently there’s this special receptor that it wreaks hell on, and it just so happens to be the receptor for capsaicin, which causes the burning associated with spicy food. Innnnnteresting. Veeeeery interesting...
- In 2004, it was found that ethanol actually activates a neural pathway reactive to sucrose. That’s right: ethanol is, at least to a rat brain, not all that far off from sugar. Which, in an evolutionary sense, is not all too surprising, given that they’re both energy sources.
- In 2004 and 2005, Lyall showed in a nice series of papers that TRPV-1 is in taste receptors, proving that they were definitely in the right location for stimulation. This is basically further confirmation of Trevisani’s work, I think.
- In 2005, Simon and Araujo published a nice review of the data thus far. Just thought I’d recognize their paper, it’s good.
- In 2009, Blednov and Harris demonstrated that if you knocked out the TRPV-1 receptor in mice, they would show significantly greater consumption of ethanol than their normal counterparts. However, you could still induce aversion in both groups, and withdrawal symptoms weren’t different between the two.
Layman’s summary up till 2009: we know now about alcohol and capsaicin, but it’s apparent that alcohol has other taste pathways as well, possibly involving sweetness. It may even involve something else as well, given that you can still get a mouse to hate alcohol even if it doesn’t have the capsaicin receptor.”
Basically, what Joh summarized was that ethanol seems to trigger a pathway that is also responsible for the burning sensation you get from eating spicy foods and, importantly, that ethanol reduces the temperature at which the pain gets triggered.
I knew from previous research that there is only one way to build up a tolerance to spicy food: eat more spicy food. Perhaps sensitivity to alcohol works in a similar fashion?
How to Deal with Different Types of Drinkers
Everyone knows that flavor preferences vary greatly between people, but I had no idea ethanol could deliver such a complex range of pleasurable and unpleasurable flavors to different tasters. How one experiences alcohol depends on their genetics, social/cultural influences, and tolerance built up over time. Rather than go into all the takeaways, I’ve organized some advice for dealing with different types of drinkers.
and another flowchart, summarizing the types of drinkers, above. click the image for full-sized version.
For the beginning drinker
You have to be careful with the beginning drinkers because you have no idea whether they are a supertaster or not. Beginning drinkers are also the most prone to developing preferences for or aversions toward alcohol, so you want to make sure they don’t drink too much or have a negative experience – it could deal irreparable damage.
Test the waters – mix something they’re familiar with, like lemonade, and add half the alcohol you might add to a full drink. See if they appreciate how the alcohol adds complexity to the drink, or if they immediately pull away, cringing. Then you might have some idea what type of drinker they are and proceed from there.
For the Supertasting Social Drinker
For those individuals who are sensitive to PROP, the only way to make sure they enjoy their drink is to keep the abv relatively low. Highballs, swizzles, shrubs, and the like are classy and can be just as strong as an up drink, but are more diluted. Steps should also be taken to reduce the perceived bitterness of the drink. Avoid bitters and quinine if possible. Instead, emphasize sour and sweet flavors. Consider adding some salt, as salt can reduce the perception of bitterness (see here for an example). Experiment with complex flavors that are not alcohol-based, such as herbs and infused syrups.
For the Connoisseur
For a guest who’s a fan of fine scotches or whiskys, you’re probably safe to assume either they’re not a supertaster or they have acquired a powerful enough preference for alcohol that the bitterness doesn’t bother them anymore. Mixing drinks for people like this can be especially difficult because it can be hard to gauge how much tolerance they’ve developed in their TPRV-1 receptors. If ethanol works anything like capsaicin, what one person sees as a spicy, pleasant sip might appear to another as bland and pale. If at all possible, it might help to have the guest taste a simple blended scotch and describe it. If they find it bland and are looking for a complex drink, it may help to add bitters, quinine, or aperitifs to up the complexity.
I somewhat suspect I am a nontaster. I love spicy, bitter cocktails and eat kale on a weekly basis (supertasters find many bitter vegetables overwhelming). It’s not a bad life, though sometimes I wonder whether I’ve missed out on taste experiences others with more sensitive taste receptors enjoy. This may be one reason I enjoy smoky cocktails (have you seen our DIY cold smoker?), carbonation, and cocktails with capsaicin mixed or infused in. Nontasters are easy to please, but tough to impress. I’ve found that simply using higher proof spirits doesn’t cut it; the harmony of other ingredients is thrown off. Challenge nontasters with new flavors. I remember once taking a shot of angostura bitters with John Gertsen of Drink. It was one of the strangest things I could imagine doing, but it was delicious. A shot of fernet, anyone?
What type of drinker are you?
week of November 7-November 13 2011
I spent most of this weekend working on a DIY Sous Vide rig, courtesy of instructions by Seattle Food Geek Scott Heimendinger. If you’re interested in making one of your own, I suggest using the updated instructions just published in Make instead of the original ones. They’re updated and a little more polished, IMHO. Make sure to check out the comments for cool hacks and inspiration. While we’re on the subject, remember that sous vide is a great way to prepare Thanksgiving dinner – for everything from building a “water oven” large enough to cook a turkey to perfectly reheating mashed potatoes. Now, onto the links of the week… Continue Reading →
flickr user blmiers2
(week of October 31-November 6, 2011)
Really Geeky Stuff (our favorite)
- azmanam at Chemistry Blog explains: store apples with bananas to improve ripening.
- Scott (the Seattle Food Geek) cuts kitchenware in half just for fun (and you can too!).
- That’s definitely what I need – faster access to caffeine. The science behind it is pretty cool, though. via Cooking, Cakes, and Chemistry.
- Awesome awesome awesome recipe for sous vide egg souffle over at Modernist Eats.
- Marc puts together a fine version of pumpkin tapioca over at No Recipes. Tapioca is a commonly used hydrocolloid – but you already knew that, right?
- Apparently, smoked cabbage makes for a pretty decent serving piece.
- Russell Karath shares a really neat way to prepare pears.
- Cheesecake in a water bath? yawn. Cheesecake in a low-temp, PID-controlled waterbath? w00t!
- Check out Modernist Cuisine’s Youtube channel looks like they just started it up, but already some cool videos uploaded.
- Did you know that pumpkin goes with pistachio? Molecular Recipes gives a rundown of useful web tool Food Pairing.
- Serious Eats produces the all-you-need-to-know guide about pairing foods with drinks.
Health and Nutrition
- Good friend Elizabeth Jarrard links to several interesting infographics in her post this week.
- If you have high blood pressure, or even think you have high blood pressure, eating salt can make it worse. These balls are only a fraction of the size of granulated salt, but deliver an intense salty punch when they hit the tongue.
- Naveen loves it, I hate it. Crazy DIY fermented tea. Good for the gut.
- Lifehacker usually puts up quality posts about food hacks and nutrition, but this one “debunking” 10 common myths misses the mark in a number of ways. Just look at the heated comments.
- Did you see our post about DIY’ing a cold smoker gun?
- Spray your cheese grater with nonstick spray to make it work more easily.
- Make your own sea salt? This seems like a terrible idea (good salt is cheap and probably tastes better), but it’s an interesting concept to ponder when considering extracting other solutes.
- This is a genius repurposing and just one more reason why everyone should own a pressure cooker: Carbonating fruit w/ pressure cooker.
- From the tweetosphere: Kenji wraps up his Food Lab book. Can’t wait to get my hands on it. I genuinely think it could have a bigger impact than Modernist Cuisine.
- Nathan Mhyrvold’s favorite cookbooks, with big shoutouts to Cook’s Illustrated.
The Food Industry
- Can “ready-to-eat” packaged meat products coexist with a farm-to-fork approach? Cal Poly will attempt to find out.
Update, 2/27/13: Like this post? check out the 250-page, 65-recipe book full of DIY hacks like this one.
Up until very recently, “nightlife” for human beings consisted of sitting around a fire, basking in its warmth and glow, enjoying the companionship of family. It’s no wonder that the scent of smoke, the gaseous embodiment of fire, evokes feelings of contentment deeply rooted in our combined psyche.
There isn’t a sound biological reason for why humans enjoy the taste of smoke. Nutritionally, smoke provides us with almost nothing. Yet, the whole race seems to have acquired the flavor of smoke, even become addicted to it. From smoked salmon to barbecue brisket to bacon, there are few foods smoke doesn’t improve.
Given our long history using smoke for culinary purposes, it should be clear that the Smoking Gun™ by Polyscience (famous for their immersion circulators and other high-end kitchen/lab equipment) doesn’t offer the home cook any new process or concept. But, it does make an ancient one more accessible.
If you have the means, we definitely recommend you buy a proper Polyscience smoking gun, since it looks like it’s soundly constructed and probably easier to clean and use than our ghetto one.
But, if you only have $20… What we have here is a “hardware recipe” for our own DIY smoke gun. Use it how you would a normal recipe: read it, think about it, and feel free to modify as you see fit.
flickr user lobo235
It’s been crazy around here! Naveen is chomping on Alinean fare as I type and I spent all weekend trying to make a crappy Chinese PID controller work — it didn’t . So in lieu of a post of our own, here are some tweets, posts, and news articles that caught our eye(s) this past week.
flickr user betsyweber
- Serious Eats‘ new column Modernist Eats takes a crack at making seasonal candies with Isomalt, a sugar substitute
- Matt Kayahara talks about how awesome an idea it is to keep a heat gun in the kitchen and then demos a killer application. We agree!
- Kamikaze Cookery returns with a timely post about barbecue science.
- Martin at Khymos does his usual awesome job with a post about beer and flavor extraction.
- Lifehacker outdid themselves this week – here are post about: microwaving pizza | crock pot soup | refrigerator pickles | chopping tomatoes without mess |
Health and Nutrition
- Nick Kristoff asks, is exercise addiction is the same thing as sugar addiction?
- In an experiment on rats, European researchers have proved that eating strawberries reduces the harm that alcohol can cause to the stomach mucous membrane. Published in the open access journal Plos One, the study may contribute to improving the treatment of stomach ulcers.
- Too Many Vegetables? How To Prevent Gas and Digestive Problems Caused By Healthy Eating from Summer Tomato
- Study shows stevia-derived rebiana has greater potency when cold
The Really Geeky Stuff
Odds and Ends
- Kenji shows us how obsessed he is about organizing his pantry.
- pork jowls. ‘nough said.
- Ideas in Food shouts out the Harvard Food Science Lectures. Look out for an upcoming post from Naveen on the topic.
- Some thoughts on Next Restaurant’s “Childhood” Menu
- Our friend Amanda applies some clever management hackery to cooking for large groups.
- Modernist inspiration from molecularrecipes.com
We are five geeks who experiment with our food. Read more about us.
For the Beginning Cook
Food Science Visualizations
Neurogastronomy and Taste Interactions
Education and Pedagogy
- Science and Cooking for Kids
- Moving past the hypothesis: how to pick and choose methods to suit a research question
- Questioning the hypothesis: how to improve teaching of the scientific method
- ScienceFare presents to the National Science Teachers Association
- Bringing Lessons from Alinea to Harvard
- Help Design the Future of Science and Cooking at Harvard
- Science of Cooking in the Bronx